One of the highlights after a long journey from Bedfordshire made by Diana and myself once again was passing through the magnificent Glencoe with its awe inspiring mountain's which really get you in the mood for the delights that lay ahead. A very popular walking and climbing area with easy access along A82. There is also a visitors centre where you can find out much more about the area.
The final approach to Ardnarmurchan takes you across Loch Linnhe on the Corran Ferry a short journey of around ten minutes and brings you into Ardgour where you then head westward along Loch Linnhe on the A861. Make sure you stop at the view point a short distance on which overlooks two small rocky islands which at low tide you will see a good many Common Seals basking. Finally as you approach Strontian and the tip of Loch Sunart the two lane road is replaced by a single track road with its many passing places so meeting other vehicles is not a problem. You will find the traffic far less here and perhaps after the initial nervousness of using single track roads you soon begin to enjoy the splendours and slow pace of life. This is all part of the way of life on your visits to Ardnarmurchan.
Our Destination was Stag Cottage, a former gamekeepers cottage now owned by Liz & Richard Hallam who have renovated the cottage to its present splendour furnished with antiquity which adds so much to its character and a homely feeling. Its is in a isolated situation at Kinlochan in Glenhurich and is reached by a steep climb on a narrow winding road from Strontian which then descends just as steeply into Polloch. The drive along this road is adventurous if you are not used to it but well worth it. There is good walking in the area and Loch Shiel is easily reached along a forest track from Polloch.
The Cottage is located not far from the bottom left hand edge of Loch Doilet in the picture, this is a freshwater loch. Red Throated Divers are seen here on occasion and Mergansers are a regular visitor. Sea Eagles make the occasional foray here from the much larger Loch Sheil too. At the iron bridge as you approach Polloch there is always evidence of otters under the bridge in the form of spraints. There has been reports of Wildcat being seen in the area with the most recent a few weeks before our stay near Strontian but have never had the fortune of even a glimpse of this shy endangered cat during our visits to Ardnarmuchan.
Stag Cottage is well noted for having regular visits made in the evening and occasional early mornings by Pine Martens. Thought described as nocturnal in mammal books this is not strictly true and they can be seen in daylight hours too. The female pine marten in the picture would arrive anytime between 7pm and 9pm while it was still daylight and gave us much opportunity for photo shots. A larger male also visited every evening but always after 9pm when we were losing the light and did not make for a decent picture. We were observing the Pine Martens through the living room window from the comfort of chairs so never attempted to use a flash. Both Soprano and Common Pipperstrelle Bats were seen each evening and identified with the aid of a bat detector.
The Pine Martens were very partial to fruit cake and would often take mouthfuls away to the edge of the garden and cache it under brash or in grass tussocks for later consumption. Occasionally we put out a chickens egg which was obviously a prize to them. On spotting it they would immediately leave the rest of the food and take the egg away only returning sometime later. Pine Martens have a very sweet tooth and love jam but on finding out this could cause problems to their teeth stopped using it later in the week.
Pine Martens are Omnivorous and in Johnny Birks booklet published by The Mammal Society in 2002 of food. they take a wide range of food such as large mammal carrion, lagomorphs, small mammals,birds, reptiles, amphibians, fish, birds eggs, crustaceans,beetles, hymenopterans, earthworms, caterpillars, mollusc's, hazelnuts, many types of fruit and berry, fungi and edible contents of litter bins. Often shown chasing squirrels these rodents only represent 1% of their diet.
This brave little bank vole we noticed one morning feeding on crumbs below the window sill, left overs from the pine martens including a few peanuts. We started to put out a few bits of food afterwards to catch a glimpse of the small mammal. Normally it would scurry from the heather in the border and scurry back again but finally it paused long enough for me to get a quick picture through the window.
On Loch Sunart between Strontian and Resipole the Forestry Commission have erected a hide which overlooks two small islands Called Garbh Eileen the larger of the two and Eileen a' Chuilinn. As well as some very beautiful views changing with the light and conditions you can observe lots of wildlife and all the wonderful sounds made by birds such oyster catchers and sand pipers. Otters are seen regularly here along with common seals and the occasional grey seals. The latter you will see basking at low tide on the rocks around Garbh Eileen. Eileen a' chuilinn is home to an Herony and their is much activity in the breeding season.
Garbh Eilleen
I have been trying for a while to get a half decent picture of a grey heron but is would seem the minute I pointed my camera in their direction they would notice and fly off. Finally achieved it with this particular heron being to busy waiting for a crab or a fish to appear so it could make its strike. Not to be on this occasion but when it moved nearer the water noticed how well its refection showed up and was able to take a number of pictures with this image being the less distorted.
Common Seal as mentioned are easily seen swimming around the two islands and basking on the rocks mostly around Garbh Eileen. They can also be good fun when they are in their playful mood chasing each over, splashing and making lots of noise.
Our views of an otter this year consisted of two brief encounters and a much better close up of an otter swimming directly below the hide on arrival at 6am. Watched it dive and surface again on a few occasions but not catching any fish or crabs. Suspect they were half hearted attempts and the otter already had it fill as it soon disappeared out of site and possibly some where onto the shoreline to rest. My camera although with me was in my rucksack and having no time to get it out and risk disturbing the otter being so close missed a perfect picture opportunity. The two Pictures above I took in 2008 on the not too distant Isle of Carna situated across from Laga Bay and opposite Morvern where Loch Teacuis joins Loch Sunart.
The Pine Martens were very partial to fruit cake and would often take mouthfuls away to the edge of the garden and cache it under brash or in grass tussocks for later consumption. Occasionally we put out a chickens egg which was obviously a prize to them. On spotting it they would immediately leave the rest of the food and take the egg away only returning sometime later. Pine Martens have a very sweet tooth and love jam but on finding out this could cause problems to their teeth stopped using it later in the week.
Pine Martens are Omnivorous and in Johnny Birks booklet published by The Mammal Society in 2002 of food. they take a wide range of food such as large mammal carrion, lagomorphs, small mammals,birds, reptiles, amphibians, fish, birds eggs, crustaceans,beetles, hymenopterans, earthworms, caterpillars, mollusc's, hazelnuts, many types of fruit and berry, fungi and edible contents of litter bins. Often shown chasing squirrels these rodents only represent 1% of their diet.
This brave little bank vole we noticed one morning feeding on crumbs below the window sill, left overs from the pine martens including a few peanuts. We started to put out a few bits of food afterwards to catch a glimpse of the small mammal. Normally it would scurry from the heather in the border and scurry back again but finally it paused long enough for me to get a quick picture through the window.
On Loch Sunart between Strontian and Resipole the Forestry Commission have erected a hide which overlooks two small islands Called Garbh Eileen the larger of the two and Eileen a' Chuilinn. As well as some very beautiful views changing with the light and conditions you can observe lots of wildlife and all the wonderful sounds made by birds such oyster catchers and sand pipers. Otters are seen regularly here along with common seals and the occasional grey seals. The latter you will see basking at low tide on the rocks around Garbh Eileen. Eileen a' chuilinn is home to an Herony and their is much activity in the breeding season.
Garbh Eilleen
I have been trying for a while to get a half decent picture of a grey heron but is would seem the minute I pointed my camera in their direction they would notice and fly off. Finally achieved it with this particular heron being to busy waiting for a crab or a fish to appear so it could make its strike. Not to be on this occasion but when it moved nearer the water noticed how well its refection showed up and was able to take a number of pictures with this image being the less distorted.
Common Seal as mentioned are easily seen swimming around the two islands and basking on the rocks mostly around Garbh Eileen. They can also be good fun when they are in their playful mood chasing each over, splashing and making lots of noise.
Our views of an otter this year consisted of two brief encounters and a much better close up of an otter swimming directly below the hide on arrival at 6am. Watched it dive and surface again on a few occasions but not catching any fish or crabs. Suspect they were half hearted attempts and the otter already had it fill as it soon disappeared out of site and possibly some where onto the shoreline to rest. My camera although with me was in my rucksack and having no time to get it out and risk disturbing the otter being so close missed a perfect picture opportunity. The two Pictures above I took in 2008 on the not too distant Isle of Carna situated across from Laga Bay and opposite Morvern where Loch Teacuis joins Loch Sunart. 
On decent down to Strontain in the early mornings we would often see red deer close to and sometimes on the road. Two of the deer a female and a stag kindly posed long enough for me to take a few pictures from the car. Had we tried to get out of the car with the deer in close proximity they would have quickly run away. Red deer are a common site all other Ardnamurchan so photo opportunities abound.
A herd of female red deer sky lining across from Ben Hiant
Red deer stags between Ben Hiant and Kilchoan
Sanna Bay is well worth a visit and on route to Ardnarmurchan Point. A lovely white beach greets you, one of many in Scotland.
Ardnarmurchan Point is the most westerly point of mainland Britian. Its lighthouse is open to visitors and it is possible to see cetaceans such as dolphins and if your lucky a Minke Whale. Numerous sea birds can be seen here best observed through a telescope
Smissary is a an old crofting community with a few cottages retained as holiday homes which can be reached by following the A61 along side Loch Moidart to Glenuig Bay where you take a narrow single track road just past the Public House sign posted to Smissary and follow it through what seems to be a farm yard and onto a car parking area. From here you can do the White Sand walk (walking boots highly recommended) which takes you through the Crofting area. and ends up at a superb white beach with fantastic views. There is a small booklet with walks around Mallaig & Ardnarmurchan including the mentioned you can purchase from the tourist information at Strontian.
On route to Castle Tioram the road takes you past the very steep rocky outcrop of Ben Gheur where peregrines have nested. On this occasion we saw no peregrines but watched a pair of common buzzards circling and calling and a small group of red deer that some how manage to move around this cliff like rocky outcrop with out too much difficulty. We then spotted this very colourful pheasant watching us. It had a metallic green colouration in the bright sunshine, and very photogenic.
At the small community of Ardmolich the A861 still a single track road before Loch Miodart crosses a metal bridge which has replaced the old stone bridge still standing along side. It is well worth stopping here and viewing from the old bridge being a good location to spot Dippers.
From the old bridge a quiet narrow road takes you along side the River Moidart past another small community of Brunery and on to a small a parking area just before the private access to Glenmoidart House. Just a short clamber up a footpath to the a farm track (once a Drovers track) which takes you on a magnificent walk along Glen Moidart to the waterfall and further if you wish. You can climb up past the waterfall to the lochon above. Seldom see many people here and a walk not to be missed and for the most part to the waterfall, easy going.
Loch Shiel is a large freshwater loch that stretches from Acharacle to Glenfinnan and the best way to take in the wonders and history is on the boat trip which can be taken in the afternoon on Wednesday from Acharacle to Glenfinnan or visa versa in the morning or the return if you wish. The single trips meet up with the Loch Shiel bus service to bring you back. On this occasion we not only had very good weather but also superb wildlife seeing two sea eagles together one a juvenile with a radio tag fitted to its back. Further on we saw distant views of three golden eagles being mobbed by Ravens and nearer Glenfinnan a further two golden eagles, being mobbed this time by a single Raven and a common buzzard. The buzzard itself a good sized bird of prey looked small compared to the golden eagle it was attacking. The eagles ability to turn in the air to present its talons to the tormentors was really something to see. The day before our boat trip we had been talking to a local man near the jetty on Loch Sheil who mentioned there had been an Osprey around the loch over the past few days thought to be passing through as not a common visitor here. Fortunes were definitely on our side this visit as no more than five minutes later the osprey appeared flying over our heads heading across the loch and continuing along the opposite shoreline and out of sight.
I remember my very first visit to Ardnamurchan and have been hooked ever since.
